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In the ever-changing fashion consumer market that is driven by quality, there is no way that brands and manufacturers make and sell sub-standard products and then expect from the consumers to not complaint about it! One of the most common reasons for consumer complaints in the apparel industry, especially for a high-end product like suits/blazers/coats and shirts is low quality of seams that causes tearing off the product from areas such as arm hole. This is a sheer case of negligence of brands and manufacturers towards product quality and this needs a massive turnaround.

To address this issue, the apparel manufacturers need to identify why it is happening and how it can be fixed. A&E and Gütermann comes up with solutions that help manufacturers obtain perfect seams on jackets, coats and blazers.

Everything about prestigious garments like suits and waistcoats must be consistent – the thread used is an important factor in this. When a factory uses A&E and Gütermann’s premium sewing thread Mara, which is produced using the globally unique Micro Core Technology®, & Supra Seam, which is produced using unique Elite core spinning technology, it enables the factories to set an overall standard. Mara is perfectly suited for automated applications and its high strength and abrasion resistance make it the perfect choice for closing and holding seams. For suits, jackets and waistcoats, these threads do what they promise.

A&E and Gütermann’srecommendations: Mara/Ultimate 120 | 150 Supra Seam/Perma Core 120 | 150 Use Finer Needles Minimal Tensions Specialised Machines

There is no doubt that buttonholes are one of the most significant indicators of quality in a garment and also one of the most challenging. The appropriate thread is absolutely crucial to success; from the evenness of the stitched finish and the absence of knots to the specific colour and appearance. A&E and Gütermann provides a number of high-quality solutions to this problem. Specifically for working buttonholes, the company recommends Mara 70. Its silky surface has both haptic and visual appeal.

A&E and Gütermann’s recommendations: Mara/Ultimate 70/80 Mara/Ultimate 30 as looper and gimp thread orMara 11/15 as gimp thread Mara/Ultimate 80 for sewing on buttons Mara/Ultimate 100 for buttonholes in reverse and sleeves Perma Core 75 Perma Core 30 as looper and gimp thread Perma Core 75 for sewing of buttons Perma Core 100 for button holes in reverse and sleeve

This is optimally safe for use in automatic sewing machines. An equal seams construction and less thread breakage result in high brilliance, no hairiness and no dust. This is appropriate as edge stitch thread on COMPLETT/AMF sewing machines.

A&E and Gütermann’s recommendations: Premium Mara 80 / Ultimate 80 / Perma core 75

One of the most critical seams in the jacket is centre back seam because there is nothing to help in assembling the two back panels that must be perfectly seamed without any pucker or excessive tension inside the seam.

There are several factors that affect the results which are mainly:

A&E and Gütermann’s recommendations:

It’s almost quite impossible to sew without pucker, however acceptable results could be achieved through:

Neat and clean seams can be achieved by using Mara 150 / Supra Seam 150 with technical adjustments.

1. In this operation, the operator skills play the most important role to control feeding and setting of sleeve fabric so as to provide the required curving for this seam.

2. In addition, there is another challenge that the seam must be strong enough (especially after steam press), thus using a strong thicker thread with high abrasion resistance is a must as to withstand the abrasion of stitching in this bulky seam that contains shoulder pad, sleeve head roll, both fabric and lining plies and stiff layers of canvas.

3. A sewing machine with ‘curve support’ and roller feeding mechanism helps a lot in handling the operation and carries most of the load of the operator.

4. Juki or Dürkopp Adler machines with ‘curve support’are one of the best machines to be used for this operation

A&E and Gütermann’s recommendations: Mara/Ultimate 120 & Supra Seam/Perma core 120 recommended to be used with fine machine setting

Perfection begins where you don’t always see it on the inside. For sewing typical linings using double lockstitch, double chain stitch and overlocked seams, A&E and Gütermannhas numerous functional and visually pleasing solutions for the industry: totally robust sewing threads which are machine-proof and which can also be used to sew excellently in combination with fine NM 65 thickness needles. The company simply calls that – self-evident.

A&E and Gütermann’s recommendations: Mara/ Ultimate/Supra Seam / Perma Core 150 as especially fine looper thread for double chain stitch and overlocked seams

Not every sewing thread is visible – not every thread is supposed to be. A&E and Gütermannoffersthe industry the complete range of options. Its semi-transparent polyester sewing threads are especially suited to seams and tacking. They are said to be fine, excellent for sewing and have optimum colour adaptability. This reduces colour changes to a minimum and prevents pressure marks when ironing.

A&E and Gütermann’s recommendations: Fine threads: Skala 360/240 Anefil Poly 360/240

It is often the small details which make a difference. Decorative seams give garments an individual and extravagant feel. A&E and Gütermann provides the industry with brilliant sewing threads to do this: with the ideal amount of stretch, they ensure the best possible sewing safety – even when used on machines. Besides the classic silk threads, the company also recommends below products which are particularly suitable for precise use and their even appearance and glossy surface catch the eye.

A&E and Gütermann’s recommendations: Mara/Ultimate 120 Mara/Ultimate 70 as needle and looper thread on double lockstitch sewing machines Mara/Ultimate 30 as needle and looper thread on double lockstitch sewing machines Supra Seam/Perma Core 120 Perma Core 75

You need very fine thread to baste through the fabric on slits in the back, sides and sleeves or to baste on labels. A&E and Gütermann brings you special sewing threads for final finishing which do not leave stitch marks and which can be pulled out of the fabric easily.

A&E and Gütermann’s recommendations: Mara 220/ Supra Seam 180

The strong and abrasion resistant solutions are suitable for all closing and holding of seams from preliminary finishing and pocket and waistband sewing to assembly and final finishing.

A&E and Gütermann’s recommendations: Mara/Ultimate 120 Mara/Ultimate 150 as alternative for stitching that is not under strain (worked seams, belt stitching) Supra Seam/ Perma Core 120 Supra Seam / Perma Core 150 as alternative for stitching that is not under strain (worked seams, belt stitching)

Overlocked seams on trousers must satisfy the highest quality requirements. The threads must not abrade, particularly on side, crotch and seat seams and must also not leave pressure marks when ironed. A&E and Gütermann offers textured polyester threads that are particularly suited to these applications as they can be used universally and are well-suited to sewing with serging machines. The company recommends that flies and pocket bags should be overlocked using a particularly fine thread.

A&E and Gütermann’s recommendations: Textured threads E Series 240 for soft overlocking on side,crotch and seat seams on light fabrics E Series 160 as an alternative for thicker fabrics Wild Cat 240 for soft overlocking on side,crotch and seat seams on light fabrics Wild Cat 160 as an alternative for thicker fabrics Mara/ Ultimate 120, 150 Mara 220 for high-quality overlocking on flies and pocket bags, side, crotch and seat seams Supra Seam / Perma Core 120, 150 Supra Seam 180 for high-quality overlocking on flies and pocket bags, side, crotch and seat seams

Elegant looks are one thing; reliability is quite another! On trousers, in particular, there are seam applications like side, crotch and seat seams which are particularly subject to stress. This is why one needs sewing threads that are both tear-resistant and stretchy.

A&E and Gütermann’s recommendations: Mara/Ultimate 120 for light and medium-weight fabrics with 5 stitches/cm Mara/Ultimate 100 for heavy fabrics Supra Seam/Perma Core 120 for light and medium-weight fabrics with 5 stitches/cm Perma Core 100 for heavy fabrics

Buttons and buttonholes in trousers have to not only look good but must also take the strain. The company specially recommends its unique Mara sewing threads for this. Their appeal lies in their silky appearance as well as in their outstanding processing properties.

A&E and Gütermann’s recommendations: Mara/Ultimate 70, 100 Perma Core® 75,100

It has become a daily ritual – get up, get dressed, get ready. Get the best out of every day, beginning with your clothes. For both business and leisure – if what you are wearing feels like a second skin, it must be the perfect shirt. A&E and Gütermann’s contribution in getting that perfect sewing thread has been immense.

Finely-woven fabrics, special treatments, complex processes – shirt-making is for the professionals. A&E and Gütermann solutions are predestined to be part of this, saving time and money. They are ideally suited to closing and top-stitched seams and for special sewing applications, they are machine-safe and retain their durability in use. In short: the ideal thread for shirts.

A&E and Gütermann’s recommendations: Mara/Ultimate 150 | 120 Supra Seam/Perma Core 150 | 120

Fine fabrics with a high warp and weft density must also be given a smooth finish. The construction of the material plays a particularly important part in sewing processes that use double lockstitch.

Collars, cuffs, button bands, shoulder and back yokes and breast pockets must be elegantly stitched – that means they must be smooth. The fine and extremely even profile of A&E and Gütermann’s threads delivers optimum results.

A&E and Gütermann’s recommendations: Mara/Ultimate 150 | 120 Supra Seam/ Perma Core150 | 120

The thread used for side and armhole seams, which are often double fell seams,are particularly subject to the challenges of durability and strength. The company recommends its Mara or Perma Core® Ultimate thread in combination with its fine Skala for a seam which does not stand out very much but meets all the requirements. A smooth appearance on the surface, even with a high stitch count – with such products,one can always be on the safe side.

A&E and Gütermann’s recommendations: Mara/Ultimate 150 | 120 as needle and looper thread alternatively Skala 360 as looper thread quality Supra Seam/Perma Core 150 | 120 as needle and looper thread Alternatively Anefil Poly 360 as looper thread

Buttonholes have to look good and must not unravel. Buttons have to be equally secure from the first to the last day of the shirt’s life. Automated sewing operations which use a variety of zig-zag stitching pose the greatest challenge to the stability of the thread. With Mara and Perma Core® Ultimate, one can rely on the optimum solution – not only stable but good-looking as well.

A&E and Gütermann’s recommendations: Mara/Ultimate 150 | 120 Supra Seam/Perma Core150 | 120

Few items of clothing are so hotly disputed as the tie: narrow or wide; plain or patterned; Windsor or (k)not. All this demonstrates the importance of the tie to the perfect entrance. It goes without saying, then, that perfect sewing threads are required as part of this.

Ties are top-quality products which have particular sewing technological requirements. Looks are important but so also is a flat seam. A&E and Gütermann can supply the optimum combination of threads for seams, linings and hems: a robust sewing thread as top thread and a very fine speciality thread as bottom thread for the finest fabrics.

A&E and Gütermann’s recommendations: Mara/ Ultimate 150 | 120 for seams, linings and hems Supra Seam/ Perma Core150 | 120 for seams, linings and hems Mara 220 or Supra Seam 180 as bottom thread

When the air is mild or there is a stiff breeze, when the sun is shining or it’s pouring down or if it’s freezing cold, coats have a lot to put up with. This is why they have to be made using perfect thread – like those from A&E and Gütermann.

There are a wide range of fabrics used for making coats: fabrics and materials such as poplin or heavy wool are used to the same extent as light fabrics or leather. This puts particular strain on closing seams, holding seams and top-stitched seams – and on the threads used to sew them. Particularly if one is working with size NM 70 fine needles, the company’s multi-talented threads are highly useful.

A&E and Gütermann’s recommendations: Mara/Ultimate 120, 150 Mara/Ultimate 100 for complete manufacturing of coats in a thicker fabric Supra Seam/Perma Core 120, 150 Perma Core 100 for complete manufacturing of coats in a thicker fabric

Look good – even in harsh weather: In order to prevent displacement and tension puckering when sewing decorative and closing seams, the weight of the fabric must exactly match that of the thread. Threads from A&E and Gütermann give the wearer the optimum combination of threads for all fabric weights.

A&E and Gütermann’s recommendations: Mara/Ultimate 150 as needle and looper thread single-sided top-stitched decorative seams on fine fabrics Mara/Ultimate 100 for heavier fabrics such as fabric for trench coats Mara/Ultimate 70 | 30 – depending on decorative seam and desired decorative effect – for less delicate fabrics and thicker fabrics Supra Seam /Perma Core 150 as needle and looper thread single-sided top-stitched decorative seams on fine fabrics Perma Core 100 for heavier fabrics such as fabric for trench coats Perma Core 75 | 30 depending on decorative seam and desired decorative effect – for less delicate fabrics and thicker fabrics Stronger threads for all fabric weights – A&E and Gütermann provides the ideal solution for waterproof coats

Chic but resilient – buttonholes in coats always present a challenge in terms of function and aesthetics. No matter which weight of fabric you are working with, you can obtain the ideal buttonhole thread, matching gimp thread from the company.

A&E and Gütermann’s recommendations: Mara/Ultimate 120|150 for especially flat buttonholes in fine fabrics Mara/Ultimate 70 for silky-smooth buttonholes Mara/Ultimate 70 as needle thread and Mara/Ultimate 30 as looperthread for hand-worked effect buttonholes Mara 30 | 15 | 11 as gimp thread Supraseam/ Perma Core 120|150 Perma Core 75 for silky-smooth buttonholes Perma Core 75 as needle thread and Perma Core 30 as looper thread

Reach us or Contact us for any kind of query and Technical Assistance at : Email: amefird@vardhmanthreads.in | sumesh.minhas@vardhmanthreads.in | uday.bammanwadi@guetermann.com

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